Camino Portuguese Espiritual : Arcade to Poio

Camino Portuguese Espiritual Begins

Today was one filled with so much. We rejoined and hiked the Pilgrim Superhighway along the Camino Portuguese that exists in the last 100 km before Santiago.  We began our trek along the Variante Espiritual.  And we enjoyed long stretches filled with new birding opportunities here in Spain.  However all of this came throughout the course of the day - and as always, it is best to commence at the beginning.  Which in this case is less of a beginning to a new day and more of a continuation of yesterday. 

Packing our Hopes and Fears Pilgrimage

It is an accepted notion on the Camino that we “pack our fears”.  In setting out many pilgrims pack more than is necessary and certainly more than is essential.  They take far too much as they strive to account for every possible eventuality.  They have the fear of getting sunburned, a fear of getting wet, a fear of getting cold, and fears of getting lost, or a fear of getting sick – just to name a few.  Hence in the process of hiking what we pack, in anticipation of our fears, can literally weigh us down until we can’t move.  What we discover as we walk is the simple truth that we don’t really need most of what is in there.  But that is a lesson to be learned through experience.

For those of us who are birders and educators who often give digital presentations to classrooms from the trail, our bags tend to weigh more than most. Don’t get me wrong this is the result of both a love of bird watching and a fear of missing out on that species that I have yet to spot!  We too pack our fears. With cameras, binoculars, and extra gear for documenting wildlife as well as giving online presentations, we’ve long been the subject of both whispers among fellow pilgrims, and critique from other hikers who often wonder how we manage to pack and carry so much.

However, it also means that if anyone were to “take hours” getting ready or packing one would think it would be us.  Yet even stripped empty and with everything spread out we can quietly repack our backpacks in a few minutes.  This, of course, is the result of years of backpacking and too many evenings striving to wild camp unnoticed. 

All of which begs the question – in Albergues what takes some individuals anywhere from 30 minutes to 2 hours to pack their small bags? 

A Long Night in the Albergue

Last night in the albergue was anything but restful. 

From midnight until early morning, the town’s nightlife provided a soundtrack of animated conversations on the doorstep of our albergue which is situated near to the local bar. Then as people made their way home after visiting the bar local dogs began barking until their calls were overtaken by a pen of extraordinarily loud roosters trying to out-call each other.  By 4:00 AM the regional songbirds decided to join the chorus.  

The coup de grace however came soon after as one gentleman got up and began alternating between singing and passing gas very loudly while taking a 46-minute long shower.  Frustrated by this a group of pilgrims got out of their bunks and began shorting all of their gear into ziplocks …perhaps the loudest packing material one might have. 

By this point, most pilgrims who had laid awake for hours simply gave up.  By 5 AM everyone was out of bed – though I doubt anyone had slept more than 10 minutes throughout the entire night. As a result stage whispers, cell phone flashlights, dropped backpacks, and the slamming of doors soon filled the albergue.   

With breakfast not available until 7 AM we were left with the choice of either heading off without our morning repast or waiting.  Which is what we did – wait, and wait and wait amid the chaos around us.  And for the next hour, we were increasingly amazed at how people can reduce their backpacks to the “bare minimum” and then spend so long rummaging through them and repeatedly taking those same backpacks apart.  To this day I still have no idea what people were doing that took so much effort. 

Breakfast and Camino Rumors

At 7:00 AM, the local bar re-opened and breakfast was served. While we expected a line at the establishment, it was surprisingly calm, with only a few pilgrims present.  Apparently most were still packing and repacking and repacking their bags.   Seated we ordered tostada and jam with strong coffee.  Those who joined us all ordered omelets for breakfast, likely in the hope of ending the tyranny of regional chickens so that future generations of pilgrims could sleep peacefully.

By 8:00 AM we had finished our breakfast, enjoyed several cups of coffee and headed out into the gloriously cool and beautiful morning.   Collecting our backpacks we were stunned to find pilgrims milling in circles at the front door of the Albergue debating whether there would be any food in Pontevedra today.  Some wondered whether they needed to stay until noon in Arcade to buy food for the 14-kilometer, or 3-hour walk. Others worried that there would be no markers today as “someone once told them somewhere online that one of the stages somewhere on the Camino had no markers” and so were debating whether taxis were necessary “so they didn’t get lost”.  While yet others were upset that some pilgrims were going beyond “Brierley’s stages which was strictly not allowed”. 

Rumours began to swirl, fears transformed into frustration, and frustrations descended into shaking and tears.  Soon both guidebooks and maps were being unfolded laid out across the floor of the Albergue and checked to reassure everyone that today was not a venture into one of Dante’s rings of hell.    Even then, 10 minutes later taxis full of pilgrims raced past us as we trekked out of Arcade.

As much as we seek to escape our uncertainties and fears by setting out on Camino, they nonetheless often follow us, shaping our actions and perspectives. 

It is easy to get caught up in rumours in life and on the Camino.  In the process, we allow our fears of the unknown, the uncertain, and the unexpected to dictate our thoughts and actions.  On the Camino Frances our pilgrimage was repeatedly hounded by rumours that “there were no bunks or beds available in the next town” and as a result, many of us began to reserve in advance.  As it turned out there were always beds and rooms available.  The Way would have provided if only we could have kept faith that everything would work out as it was supposed to.  We soon came to see that we were spending more time worried about these rumours and the fears expressed by others than we were not focusing on the world open to us on the Way of St. James.  As John Lennon once observed, “life is what happens when we are busy making plans…”.

The fact is that even on Camino you cannot leave your fears and troubles behind, you do carry them with you.  Fortunately, the journey offers each of us the opportunity to confront and reflect on our anxieties, time to come to terms with the emotions they give way to, and a means to find a way to live with them without letting them dictate our actions.  

“…You know you got to go through hell
Before you get to heaven…”

Steve Miller Band, Jetliner

Setting Out : Arcade to Poio

Today however, few were willing to listen to the simple realities that there was food in Pontevedra which is a larger city, that one need not carry several days of supplies on the Camino, and that the way is VERY clearly marked (especially in the last 100 km), and that the stages detailed in guide books where merely suggestions.  The fearful resolve of the many could not be shifted.  Awestruck by the drama we finally extracted ourselves from the albergue and headed out onto the way by 9 AM.

The route today began with us backtracking through the narrow streets of Arcade tracing between stone walls bordered by large gardens and personal vineyards into the heart of the Galician countryside.  Passing an old washing house, Lavadoiro de Pontillon, we picked up a beautiful cobblestone path that wove through a eucalyptus forest gradually ascending toward a bridge over the Rio Ullo.  

Here, at a rest area, we found a familiar duo of pilgrims who had set up their tent last night and who were in the midst of packing up for the day.  Giving us friendly waves they wished a cheery ‘buen Camino’ as we trekked past.   

Continuing on the trail led us through hilly terrain that was lush green and lined with purple foxglove.  Passing through beautiful woodland we again found wagon ruts worn into the large stones.  Given the local historical markers, we assume that this was likely a medieval road, but may have origins that go back to the Via Romana XIX.  Irrespective of the track’s history we enjoyed the woodland path which was lined with spring flowers and gave way to a number of photographic opportunities.

With only a small number of pilgrims, we otherwise had the trail to ourselves as we climbed uphill steadily through a eucalyptus and pine forest. At the top we saw the landscape unfold before us we began to remember it from our walk on the Camino Portuguese Central route several years ago.

As we progressed the Way of St. James traversed a stretch that felt as though we were in corridors of mossy stone walls.  Around us mossy-covered eucalyptus, and beautiful deciduous trees provided shade while European Robins filled the forest with bird song.  

En route, we passed vinelands and found notes from other pilgrims placed on top of Camino cairns with life lessons, messages, and hopes written on them.   Pointedly, one individual had left small notes detailing each of their fears and each of their hopeful prayers as they strove to find peace of mind. 

I have always loved the openness and honesty on the Camino.  So much of this journey, regardless of which route one follows, is about reconnecting and finding resolution. 

Fears Emerge Again

Shortly after finding these beautiful messages fears would again arise. 

As we walked we spotted a Song Thrush and began to photograph it on the side of the trail. Unfortunately in the process, we did not notice another pilgrim walking down the Camino.   Apparently, the sight of two people on the side of the path not moving and looking into the woods startled this older woman who wearily watched us before deciding that she had to continue on.  As a result, we were startled when she rushed and physically ran into both of us.  Pushing past she hit Sean with her hiking stick while growling at the two of us. About 10 feet beyond us covered in sweat and trembling she screamed at us that we should be ashamed for scaring other people. 

It was a poignant reminder that we can never know how others interpret our actions or interests.   Whether it’s the fear of strangers, the nervousness of being in the outdoors, or the uncertainty of the path ahead, it can sometimes cloud our curiosity and opportunities for connection.  We sadly were never able to explain our interest in birds or our love of photographing nature.  Or the simple fact that the first time we had seen her was when she hit us.

Approach to Pontevedra

A little confused and a little sad we walked on a bit more aware of how we might look to others.  As the kilometres passed we came across horses, amazing Celtic crosses and an alternative route via a forest.  Near Bergunde we left the woodland and trekked on with small patchworks of fields planted with crops around us.  In the distance, we were amazed by the scale of the terraced vineyards as we had never previously realized that Galicia was such an important wine-growing region.

Nearing Pontevedra, the surroundings began to change, with the region’s agriculture and vineyards giving way to more homes.  Descending into the village of O Pobo we came to the small stone Capela de Santa Marta before crossing over the Rio Tomeza. 

Here we found a sign indicating that we had a choice of two routes.  The first was along a shadeless road through town, while the second which was .5 km longer, navigated a covered footpath alongside the river.  Following the complimentario route, we enjoyed the treed corridor along the waterway in the Naturaleza do Rio Romeza. 

About halfway along this alternative route we again began to see a lot of other pilgrims all again trekking 3 and 4 across the path.  Adjusting our pace we slowed down so as not to walk on top of others. 

The Camino soon joined with the paved road along which were homes, garages, and cafes. Continuing on, we soon passed under train tracks through an underpass, followed along a short section of forested trail, and finally meandered down a tree-lined sidewalk into the city.  

Pontevedra Spain

By 10:30 AM, we entered Pontevedra, greeted by the sight of an ocean of pilgrims filling cafes, seated at bars, and determinedly lined up for albergues for the night. Pontevedra is a historic city with charming plazas, churches, and baroque buildings, though the busy atmosphere made it feel less like a peaceful pilgrimage stop and more like a bustling hub of activity.

Though too early for us to stop for the day we nonetheless found a quiet bar off the Camino and enjoyed our “second breakfast”, a chocolate croissant and café con leche.  It was the sort of calorie intake that one can only justify when regularly walking such long distances.  Actually, one need not justify it – instead one should simply enjoy it as part of the pilgrim experience.  While taking our break we took the opportunity to catch up on our journals.

Given our view of the Way of St. James from the front of the cafe we watched the huge and steady stream of pilgrims flooding past outside.  For 45 minutes the stream never abated, the pilgrims just kept coming.   Undoubtedly this was a very different experience from the one that we had partaken in years ago. 

Historical Pontevedra

Tracing an increasingly familiar route through town we made our way to the central square of town.  En route, we followed café lined sidewalks.  Blessedly in the historic quarter the roads are closed to cars and are pedestrian only. 

The further into the city we walked the denser the crowds of office workers, local residents, weekend tourists, and pilgrims became.  Along the way, we passed interesting shops full of artisanal foods, fresh pastries, and bags of spices.  The sights and smells of European markets and shops are something dearly lacking in North America.  The freshness of everything here in Portugal and Spain in the shops calls to one and you feel as though you could be happy eating all day. 

Pontevedra has a beautiful old quarter that is a district full of charming colonnaded public squares and historic churches.  It is considered an important stop on the Camino for pilgrims as it is home to the iconic semi-circular Baroque chapel the Capela da Virxe Peregrina built for pilgrims in 1778.   This structure’s front is topped with a row of pilgrims and symbols of the pilgrimage to Santiago can be found throughout.

We took the opportunity to visit this beautiful building.  Inside, we paused to reflect and receive stamps for our credentials, marvelling at the unique scallop shell design of the floor plan and the statue of the Virgin, dressed in medieval pilgrim garb.

We also climbed a large stone staircase ascending the chapel and got a magnificent view of the altar and holy space from above. 

Departing the Capela da Virxe Peregrina we were surrounded by stunning fountains, statues and the beautiful architecture of the old medieval city.  Though we were tempted to explore more of Pontevedre the crush of people, forcefulness of tour groups, and overwhelming noises of the city led us to walk on.

Sometimes walking back into cities after so long on the trail can be hard. 

Departing Pontevedre

Setting out we followed the brass scallop-shell markers inlaid every few feet throughout the old quarter of town.    Crossing the beautiful Ponte do Burgo, a 12th-century bridge over the Lerez River, we found ourselves navigating narrow streets on the edge of town. The Camino soon began climbing through neighborhoods with nice views back over the region as the high-density buildings of the city gave way to smaller homes with gardens, and eventually to vineyards.

Our route continued down a quiet country lane bordered by large gardens and meadows of pink and purple wildflowers.  Along this stretch, we saw signs for the Via Romana XIX, a part of the Roman Empire’s network of roadways connecting important sites in Iberia such as Braga, Astorga and Lugo with the rest of Europe. 

Espiritual Variante

Trekking several kilometres in this manner we arrived at a public fountain and soon after the fork in the Camino that we had been searching for.  We had initially wondered if we would miss the turn on the Camino to the alternate route of the Espiritual variant.  In the end, however, there is a large and prominent sign noting the division between the Central and the Spiritual Way.

Officially signed as the beginning of the Variante Espiritual Del Camino Portuguese a Santiago, the sign shows the suggested stages for the route and details the names of towns and villages along the way, as well as the distances and elevations en route.

The Espiritual Variante is an alternate trail to the more popular Camino Portuguese Central route that branches to the west-north of the Pontevedra.  From here the Espiritual path traces around a peninsula of land known as O Salnes before rejoining the main Camino route in Pontecesures on the outskirts of Padron. 

The Espiritual is known for its focus on reflection and mindfulness. The natural beauty and peacefulness of this variant that weaves through serene forests, rolling green hills, and expansive vineyards serve to further enhance the experience of the Camino. This immersion in nature provides an opportunity for spiritual growth and a chance to connect with the divine presence that is deeply felt within the natural world.

Promoters of the Camino Espiritual suggest that this pathway and the subsequent Sea trail across the Arousa estuary and up the Ulla River trace the route through which the remains of St. James the Apostle arrived in Galicia Spain.  It should be noted however, that both historians and guidebooks alike are uniform in their rejection of this idea bluntly noting that there is absolutely no evidence of any connection to St. James or Santiago through this area.

Climbing the Variante Espiritual Del Camino

As we stood at the crossroads on the Camino a group of pilgrims consisting of three young Asian ladies came around the corner joyously singing.  Their enthusiasm and happiness were a wonderful reminder of the joy found along the Camino. 

Ready to venture onto the Espiritual Way, we adjusted our backpack straps and turned left.  Crossing a local bridge we began climbing steeply up narrow paved roads through quaint and peaceful neighborhoods.  While exposed to the hot afternoon sunshine we benefited from having a nice breeze. Next, we crossed busy highways three times - the first two we passed over on pedestrian bridges, while last we went under in a tunnel.

Still climbing our route shifted to following a steep dirt footpath through a forest before crossing a vineyard on a grassy track.  Eventually, we arrived at the tiny village of Campano where we took a break outside of a small stone church.  This wonderful place of worship was the Igrexa de San Pedro de Campano where a gentleman was inside cleaning in preparation for mass and waved us in to see the chapel. 

Compano to Poio

Walking through Campano the first restaurant we came to was the Hotel Rural Campaniola which appeared to be both very fancy and closed.  About 100 meters away however was a second establishment which had several pilgrims sitting outside.  With this being the only option to take a break we slipped off our backpacks and took a couple of seats on the outdoor patio.  Here we enjoyed refreshing glasses of orange juice and a tiny bowl of delicious pasta.  During our break, we also had the opportunity to pet a wonderful black and white dog who trolled the tables looking for scraps of food and friendly hands to sniff.

Continuing on the Way the trail continued to climb while weaving through a shady forest of eucalyptus and pine trees followed by stone wall-lined vineyards. Within half an hour the path gave way to views of the red-tiled roofs of the town of Poio below. As we emerged back onto the paved road that wove gently through local vineyards we were passed by a taxi with the pilgrims who had been at the same bar in Campano that we had recently stopped at. Reminding ourselves that ultimately everyone makes their own way to Santiago we continued along the country lane.

Monasterio de Sax Xoan de Poio

Not long after we came to a large roundabout on the highway, and we took the branch that led into Poio, where our destination for the night, the Mosteiro de Poio is located.  Despite taking so many breaks throughout the day it was still only 1 PM when we arrived at the Monasterio de San Xoan de Poio, a vast complex of buildings including cloisters and a church surrounded by tranquil gardens.  The stately manner was only offset by the cars and trucks parked around the internal courtyard.

As it was too early to check in we took time to explore the beautiful grounds, including the Herreo do Mosteiro de Poio, or historical Galician granary, an 18th-century structure which holds the distinction of being the largest horreo in Galicia.  In addition, we walked around the tranquil meditation gardens, the Xardein do Mosteiro de San Xoan de Poio. The peacefulness of the monastery was a welcome break from the day's exertion, and we savoured the quiet,

By 2 PM we checked in and were given a room on the second floor accessed by climbing a stunning wide marble staircase and trekking a labyrinth of corridors.  Somehow in the process, we got lost boxing around the seemingly endless corridors and cloisters.  The sheer scale of the building – while beautiful – was nonetheless a little sad.  With so many rooms the monastery suggested a time when it must have been full of devoted people who had lived and learned here over the centuries as well as the numbers of pilgrims who have stayed here. 

After a great deal of wandering, we found our room which was a cozy whitewashed and comfortable space.  Here we enjoyed cold showers, hand-washed our clothes and rested in the cool interior.

We then walked a couple kilometres downhill along the Camino into town to the local grocery store and purchased some bread and cheese for dinner tonight and some jam and fruit for breakfast tomorrow.  After which we returned to the shaded area in front of the monastery’s church to eat on a bench and to enjoy the cold breeze as the evening settled in.

Museum and Murals

At 7 PM the monastery reopened and we were able to explore the attached museum which also included being able to explore the cathedral, cloisters and archives.  Inside we were able to wander the cloisters, see amazing modern art, and view illuminated manuscripts from the library of Lorenzo Medici which included a copy of Machiavelli’s The Prince.

Here we also saw books that were owned by Nostradamus – very cool!

One particularly fascinating area was a mural of Roman tile depicting the Camino Frances, showcasing the towns, flora, and fauna along the popular pilgrimage route. 

While seeming out of place on the Camino Portuguese the mural was nonetheless amazing.  The mural, completed by Czech artist is 200 meters in length and highlights pilgrims, towns, cities, important moments and structures along the way from Saint Jean Pied de Port France to Santiago Spain. 

It was a reminder of the shared history and significance of the pilgrimage to Santiago, not only along the Portuguese routes but for all who walk its paths across Europe.  The opportunity to explore the cathedral and visit the museum was an amazing gift for those staying at the monastery - the cost of which included our pass to the museum.

Evening Reflections : The Camino’s Quiet Power

Back in our room, we opened our windows and let in the glorious fresh cool air of the evening.  Or perhaps it was to let out the smell of two pilgrims and their gear after a month on the trail.  Relaxing we idled, writing postcards to friends at home and reading about tomorrow’s stage.

We also took a few moments to reflect on our journey. The change in pace from the crowded Camino Portuguese to the serene Variante Espiritual had been remarkable. The peacefulness of the Espiritual Way allowed for a more pleasant journey and a more relaxing time in nature. 

Embarking on the Camino Portuguese from Arcade to Poio, the day was an adventure that navigated through both diverse landscapes and the fears that so many of us carry on the Way of St. James.  As such, the day unfolded as one full of introspection. 

It seems clear that a central truth of the Camino today is that no matter how hard we try we cannot leave our fears behind.  Through each step, we will find them on the trail and we must choose to either confront them or learn to live with them.  Whether it’s confronting rumours, uncertainties, or the unexpected in a forest the Camino teaches us that the pilgrimage is not just about reaching Santiago but about embracing the journey with all its ups and downs and dealing with our own inner demons.

Accommodations: Masterio de Poio