Country Lanes and Woodlands : Viana do Castelo to Caminha

A Pilgrim’s Journey on the Portuguese Coastal

 
Our morning started with one of the most challenging things a person can have to deal with on the trail - putting on damp clothes. The night before, we had hand-washed our clothes, hanging them up around our room to dry. Unfortunately, this morning while they weren’t exactly soaking wet, they certainly weren’t dry either. And so as we prepared to head out today we regretfully but steadfastly put on our still-damp garments and stepped out into the crisp morning air, determined to continue our journey on the Camino Portuguese Coastal from Viana do Castelo to Caminha.
 

History and Se Cathedral of Viana do Castelo

 
After checking out and enjoying a quick breakfast of croissants and coffee we set off to explore Viana do Castelo before beginning our last full day of walking in Portugal. The charming town unfolded around us: picturesque squares, beautiful tiled buildings, and romantic balconies. 

We wandered through the historic quarter, enjoyed the Jardim da Marina and eventually reached the iconic Se Cathedral de Viana do Castelo.  While beautiful the true goal of the morning was a climb up to the Templo do Sagrado Coracao de Jesus on Monte de Santa Luzia, which offered panoramic views of the town and the Atlantic.
 

Climbing Monte de Santa Luzia

 
Having navigated town and crossed over the local train tracks we began our climb up the long staircase to the white church on top of the hill, Mount of Santa Luzia is the Templo do Sagrado Coracao de Jesus or the Sanctuary of the Sacred Heart of Jesus. 

 
It would take us 45 minutes of trekking the near vertical ascent to reach the top.  Regardless of our slow pace it was a nice climb as the stone steps were shaded by large Black Wattle trees.  Only one other pilgrim walked the route when we did – a long German Girl who was also carrying a large backpack.

 
We eventually reached the top at 9 AM, just as the impressive church opened for the day.  Also at the summit was a lovely looking albergue with large glass balconies and expansive windows which would have been a lovely place to be at sunset last night though I know we would not have had the energy yesterday to have reached here.

 
The Templo do Sagrado Coracao de Jesus, built in 1926, features a stunning chapel and a domed ceiling with awe-inspiring frescoes. 
 
Having arrived just as the church opened we were able to spend a few minutes of quiet with no one around while admiring this beautiful space.
 

Back outside the entrance, we also enjoyed unparalleled views over the town, the river, and the sea.
 
As the crowds began to arrive and tour buses pulled up, we took a moment to enjoy the solitude before continuing our pilgrimage.
 

Woodland Walk back to the Camino

 
Rather than retracing our steps and descending the long staircase we had recently ascended, we instead chose a marked GR route which turned out to be a pleasant dirt tract leading through a tranquil forest back to the Camino. At the bottom, we encountered the Arcos do Fincão, a striking stone archway.

 

Our walk was bordered by a high stone wall which was almost magical with its various wooden and metal doors.  In this manner, we wound our way on cobblestone streets through a series of towns. This quiet stretch had a number of blooming flowers including Bear’s Breeches, Common Lantana and Meadow Brown Butterflies.

 

Locating the Camino we followed markers along a road passing a mixture of professionally landscaped homes with palatial views of the Atlantic Ocean down below, farmland with pastures, and vineyards.   En route many of the crossroads in this region had small shrines located at them – with most still having lit candles and fresh flowers.  According to one online source, this tradition is a holdover of an older, Roman custom where shrines were erected to protect travellers.

 
Turning uphill on a cobbled pathway we walked under a tree canopy which covered the trail making a shaded green tunnel which the sunlight was filtering through.
 
Quinta da Boa Viagem
 
As we ventured on, the landscape shifted to lush vineyards and fields, where the scent of wildflowers and the sight of butterflies filled the air. The quiet path eventually led us to the beautiful Quinta da Boa Viagem, a 16th-century manor house with stunning baroque gardens.
 
Though much of this estate was hidden behind a tall stone wall with a bright golden yellow gate with fancy baroque decorations it is advertised as an example of a 16th-century Portuguese manor house that has terraced gardens added in the 18th century filled with baroque statues, fountains, and exotic shrubs and trees. 

 
Opposite this historic abode, tucked in under trees, was the tiny Capela da Nossa Senhora da Boa Viagem which offered a peaceful spot to rest.  Here we stopped in the shade of its covered entrance, sat on stone benches and enjoyed a snack.  Looking through the locked door, the inside was an intricate altar complete with a large and elaborate model sailing ship.  This wonderful chapel is clearly still used to pray for seafaring families as well as pilgrims on the road to Santiago.

 
With our snack done we walked down pleasant, quiet country lanes bordered with homes and gardens filled with lush tropical plants, fruit trees, and bird song.  Next, we came to a stretch of very modern-looking cube homes made of white stucco and glass surrounded by fake grass.

After which we passed a garden absolutely full of statuary.  A lot of creations were painted red, and most of it involved farming machinery made into works of art.   

 

This section was, to say the least, an eclectic mixture of styles.

Camino dos Burros

 
Walking on we followed the Camino dos Burros, a scenic trail lined with eucalyptus trees leading down narrow cobblestone lanes.  On here we passed through the village of Toriscoso, spotting more horreros and small farms.  This cobblestone lane went on for what seemed like a very long time and lasted until we came to the town of Carreo where we turned onto a paved road, crossed a set of railway tracks and arrived at the tiny stone chapel of Capela de Sao Paio.

 
Near to the Igreja Paroquial de Carreco, a stone block building with a rounded green door, a small, simple rose window above it, and a single white, square bell tower, we took a break at the Café Bar Central where we found ourselves amid a huge wave of pilgrims.
 

Pilgrim Cafe Chaos

 
The busy Cafe was packed with both pilgrims and locals.  While most pilgrims had left their backpacks outside against the wall, many had gone into the cafe mini Mercado with their packs on and were milling about – making it nearly impossible for others to get in or leave through the narrow entryway. 

 
Even on the street side outside chaos ruled.  As we sat enjoying our cold drinks and pastel de nata we watched as one pilgrim, oblivious to the crowded space wove between tables trying to select the seating with the best shade, the best view, and then the most comfortable chair (they were all same red plastic seats).  In the process she asked, then demanded, that people already sitting move, give up their chairs, switch tables and re-angle umbrellas. 

 
Throughout the entire scene, she seemed utterly oblivious to others or how her demands sounded.  She took no notice of the fact that she was kicking over other’s backpacks or of the chaos she was creating.
 
Scenic Walk from Chapel to Chapel
 
As the afternoon wore on and the heat continued to rise, we continued through town along the narrow cobblestone lanes eventually crossing back over train tracks.  Our route was by small homes with large gardens and small fields, that were newly ploughed, with the rich, dark soil ready to be planted.

  
Continuing on we passed the the Capela de Sao Sebastiao and a nice-looking albergue, the Casa do Sardao. What followed afterwards was another very, very long stretch of walking on cobblestone laneways lined with stone and stucco walls that periodically had interesting and colourful doors or gates in them but which was hot in the shadeless afternoon sun. 
 
Along this route, we would also pass the Capela da Senhora da Conceicao which is a small white chapel built onto a rock and hidden under a huge, majestic, conifer with an incredibly dense, spreading canopy. 

 
Later the trail ventured through a beautiful (and blessedly shaded) forest as it boxed around the Sao Joao de Cabanas convent.  This convent was founded in 564 and would change hands a number of times throughout its history.  In 1382 it passed to the Saint Benedict order and then was restored in 1720 before being occupied by aristocracy, literati, diplomats, and others. 

 
Next, we passed the Capela de Nossa Senhora de Amparo which is a small white chapel with a rounded dark green front door.
 
Not long after we passed through the small community of Pedreira where we spotted both European Serin and European Robins
 
Ancient Ruins and Portuguese History
 
Coming up to the ruins of Trilhos dos Castros there were signs indicating that we were now also following the Castros Trail.   Apparently, the Camino route lay just east of the 'Cividade de Ancora’ which is an archaeological site of the Castro culture.  The Cividade was built during the Iron Age (2nd Century BCE) and was occupied up until the Romanization of Hispania (1st Century CE). The site was built on the Monte de Sauvidade, or the "Hill of Softness" which overlooks the Ancora River and along with other settlements controlled access to the gold in the mountain ranges of Santa Luzia and Arga.

 
The Castro culture, or culture of hill forts, existed in the northwestern regions of the Iberian Peninsula existing in what is today northern Portugal together with the Spanish regions of Galicia, Asturias, and western Leon.  This region was controlled by the Castro culture from the 9^th century BCE until Roman and Latin culture was introduced during the 1st Century BCE. 
 

Ancora Portugal

 
Passing this archeologically important region we walked through a small woodland before following a paved road descending into the quiet but modern-looking town of Ancora situated at the mouth of the Minho River.

 
Here we made our way across town, past the tiny Capela da Nossa Senhora dos Esquecidos, Our Lady of the Forgotten.

 

Next, we crossed the Ponte da Torre, an 18th-century stone bridge that marks the historical crossing point for both pilgrims and locals which was built to provide a more direct route on the road to Santiago de Compostela.  After crossing, we strolled through Ancora’s cobbled streets passing quiet residential areas and along the bustling main street lined with shops and cafes.  
 

Vila Praia de Ancora

 
The next section of our long journey today led us to rejoin with the Camino Litoral which we followed along the ocean to Caminha. Soon after we passed a sign for Vila Praia de Ancore and quickly spotted the Forte da Lagarteira, a 17th-century fort built at the mouth of the Ancora River overlooking the coast to defend against Spanish attacks during the Restoration Wars.  

 
Here, for the first time today, we walked level with the ocean with the coast to the left and an open, grassy field beyond which we could see the buildings of Ancora.  Along the walkway were stone benches and works of art.  One particular piece was a metal panel which had Porcelain people reaching up out of it.  Apparently, it is a tribute to the fishermen of Ancora and their families.

 
As we walked along the rocky coast, we admired the natural beauty of the landscape: open fields, grazing horses, and distant views of the steep, forested slopes of Monte de Santa Trega in Spain.
 

Caminha Portugal

 
Approaching our destination for the day, we traversed a pedestrian tunnel under local train tracks, following a tree-lined road that led us into the town’s outskirts.

 
Once in the historic center of Caminha, we passed through the old town gates and reached the majestic central square and iconic Torre do Relogio clock tower. Caminha’s charm lies in its history, dating back to Roman times it has also been occupied by the Celtic peoples owing to the city's strategic position on the Atlantic coast and mouth of the Minho River.  

As a result over the centuries, it has had medieval defensive walls and an impressive church built while it developed into an important Portuguese port. 

 
Impressed we lined up with other pilgrims waiting for a bunk and checked into the albergue, the Arca Nova Guest House and Hostel.   Inside we completed the usual chores of laundry and washing up before returning to the main square where we sat at a table on an outdoor patio for a couple of cold beers and veggie burgers for dinner. 

 
By the end of dinner, it was dark and we took the opportunity to explore the historical streets around Caminha and enjoy the coolness of the evening.  Wandering about we discovered a beautiful arched palisade outside the the Igreja da Misericordia – which looked all the more beautiful at night with its lights on.

 
Afterwards, we ventured out to the Igreja Matriz de Caminha which is a beautiful old stone church that overlooks the waterway.  From here one can walk along the grassy top of the walls from which you can get great views of the Spanish coast which lies across the Minho River.
 

Reflecting on the Camino

 
As our last full day in Portugal drew to a close, we reflected on the incredible journey we had undertaken. After a month of walking from the southern coast at Faro to the bustling streets of Porto, we were now at the threshold of Spain. Tomorrow, we would board a boat and cross the Minho River, leaving Portugal behind and continuing our pilgrimage into the next chapter of the Camino de Santiago.