Little Moments on the Camino Portuguese : Vila do Conde to Esposende

 Little Moments on the Camino Portuguese

 “Sunlight fell and reminded me that life can be so gracious sometimes

And I felt like everything around me was connected somehow…

 

At night I hear the rhythm of the ocean as it breaks on the shore

And I think about all the things that I am grateful for”

                                        Hollow Coves, Blessings

 
Walking the Camino Portuguese is not just about reaching Santiago de Compostela; it's about the small, sometimes overlooked moments that shape the journey. It is easy for pilgrims to be so focused on the destination that they miss the wonders along the way. Whether it’s spotting nature’s beauty, encountering wildlife like birds, lizards, or butterflies, or reflecting on the spiritual in front of a church or cross these are the moments that make the Camino truly meaningful.

 

Small gestures of kindness, such as the smile of a stranger or the shared joy of finding a welcoming albergue, can transform an ordinary day into something extraordinary. For pilgrims, having a warm shower, a bed to sleep in, and the simple act of washing clothes are blessings that are easy to overlook. But these “little things” and quiet moments are often what make the pilgrimage memorable.

 
For us those moments are found in connecting to the world through nature.  To many, we appear unusual on the Camino.  We carry our long-distance hiking backpacks (90-110 litres), and though they aren’t full we nonetheless have both our binoculars and birding camera gear on us.  For many pilgrims – educated to only carry the bare minimum – the sight of others with this type of gear on them is either offensive or a source of curiosity.  Regardless, for us, it is the small moments in nature along the way that we find to be essential - observing lizards and plovers or discovering small ponds filled with life.  For us, it is nature that connects us to the spiritual on the Camino.
 

The Mixed Blessings and Challenges of Albergues

 
Any Camino experience invariably includes the unpredictability of albergues. Our stay last night was a reminder of the highs and lows of this communal lifestyle. While the Albergue itself was lovely, the noise—coughing, snoring, and loud sex —was a challenge. The culmination however came at 4 AM when one pilgrim packed their bag, turned on the lights and seemingly slammed every door in the building on their way out.  A frustrating situation only matched when at 4:30 AM they returned for a hairbrush that they had forgotten.  A process that again necessitated all the lights being turned back on, backpacks being sorted through, and all the doors being re-slammed.  Needless to say, before long everyone in the Albergue found themselves awake.  And so the day began as pilgrims began to wearily set out.

 
Thankfully we immediately found a café next door where we enjoyed a breakfast of café con leche and warm croissants.  Thankfully the establishment was either open very early or had yet to close from the soccer game last night.  And thankfully the coffee was both strong and wonderful!  Despite the early beginnings of the day, we were glad to have a terrific meal and the opportunity to sit in a courtyard under trees filled with plump oranges before setting out for the next stage along the Camino.
 

Return to the Camino Coastal : Vila do Conde to Esposende

 
Leaving the albergue behind, we journeyed through Vila do Conde, one of the oldest settlements in Portugal. Known for its historical significance in the 16^th century during the Age of Discovery, this area was vital to Portugal’s maritime empire. Only a few blocks into our trek we came to the Praca Monumento.  This monument was designed by José Rodrigues and is a space with geometric waves and sails that honour the 500th anniversary of the Portuguese Discoveries, with symbols that connect the city's history to its role in the maritime achievements of the period.
 

Continuing along we followed the traditional shell and arrow Camino markers on the pavement along the banks of the river back to the Atlantic coastline.  As we walked through town on a treed cobblestone boardwalk we spotted the local rowing club out practicing as European Serin, Black Redstarts, European Stonecat, and Rock Pigeon dotted the river. 

 

Rounding the bend in the river estuary turning north to follow the ocean we passed a long wall with a huge mural commemorating the women who dried the cod fish that were brought home by the fishermen.   The words on this community painting translate as "this was the sea of ​​women, here they glorified themselves and here they did not fail".
 

Chapel and Hermitage

 
Soon after we came to a simple red-roofed building with a cross overlooking the ocean called the Capela de Nossa Senhora da Guia or the Chapel of Our Lady of Guia.  Inside the small chapel was lined with beautiful tiles and its ceilings were decorated with biblical scenes.  According to a mounted information plaque, this site was a hermitage that was first referenced in 1059 but it was speculated to be much older having been used for religious purposes and also as a defensive outpost at times.  

 
Beyond the chapel, a long breakwater extended out into the ocean protecting the mouth of the river.  Here lots of locals were fishing with extremely long rods enjoying the morning sunshine and each other’s company. 

 
Turning to walk north we met a Portuguese gentleman whose job was to sweep the walkway clear of sand.  We were amazed as his role was essentially an impossible task striving to keep the sands of the nearby beach at bay.  Despite this fact the gentleman didn’t seem at all daunted by it, in fact, he seemed positively contented.  We chatted with him for a moment, and he offered an almost Buddhist perspective on the situation.  According to him, he was merely sweeping the sidewalk, not striving to eradicate the sand.  The moment seemed to hold a very valuable lesson in it.  

Trekking on we crossed a small beach and found ourselves walking around the high stone walls of the Forte de Sao Joao Baptista de Vila do Conde.   This fortification is dedicated to the patron Saint of Vila do Conde.  Construction on it began in the 1570's likely part of D. Sebastiao's plant to fortify all the major coastal locations along the coast from Cascais to Caminha.  Its structure has five bastions and three watchtowers, one of which wasn't completed until 1793 - more than two centuries after its beginning.  When in use this fort purportedly had a drawbridge, freshwater well, governor's house and barracks, magazines and stores for weapons and gunpowder, as well as dungeons, kitchens, and a chapel.  Unfortunately today, most of this is gone and it now houses a hotel, restaurant, disco, and events hall. 

 

Northwards along the Coast

 
Following the vibrant Atlantic waters we continued passed several more beaches walking on a paved walkway.   Just beyond the coastline, we noticed that in the water were a series of stone or concrete crosses erected on small rocky outcroppings.   Unfortunately, there was no explanation for them in either our guidebook or along the route. 

 
Are they there to bless the regional fishermen?  Are they there to show the way to pilgrims?  Or do they mark the way to Santiago for those on boats?

 
For a few kilometres, we trekked along this waterfront trail which was clearly well-used and enjoyed by local residents.  En route, we passed Praia da Ladeira and Praia das Caxinas, both of which were busy on this beautiful weekend morning.  Here the Camino was bordered by colourful condos on one side and a large expanse of golden sand and vibrant blue waters of the Atlantic on the other.  Throughout cafes and restaurants as well as small colourful sheds lined the walkway.   
 

Povoa de Varzim

 
By 8 AM we walked into Povoa de Varzim the contrast between nature and modern life was striking.  Here we found a beautiful wall of blue and white tiles depicting the history of the town.  Soon after the Way of St. James skirted around a large marina filled with sailboats as well as a large skateboard park filled with happy local youth enjoying the day.  It was also here that we again began to see and meet up with the steady stream of pilgrims that appeared to typify the Camino de Costa route.  

 
Another four kilometres up the coast we spotted something unexpected, an Iberian Green Frog.  This chance discovery was made in a concrete ditch beside a tiny bridge.    The Iberian Green Frog is also known as the Iberian water frog or Perez’s frog.   It is common across the Iberian Peninsula being native to Portugal, Spain and southern France.  According to iNaturalist it prefers forests, rivers, freshwater lakes and freshwater marshes.  This discovery marked the first time that we had spotted a frog in either Portugal or Spain!

 
Now several hours into the day we stopped for a break, to enjoy a coffee at a local cafe on the beach.  Here we were joined by a German family on pilgrimage and a local cat who snuggled against our feet under the table.  After half an hour or so, and with the heat of the day already beginning to rise we set off again with a fresh group of pilgrims sitting down as we left. 

 
Stepping back on the Camino we returned to the boardwalk that we would follow for most of the day.  Challengingly we walked amid a solid wave of trekkers.  These large groups of hikers serve to remind one of the shared nature of the pilgrimage and often give way to unique encounters and conversations.   With that said the nature of the Camino Portuguese and the many routes that intersect and diverge north of Porto can also make hiking with others for extended periods a challenge.  Just as one begins to recognize familiar faces those people would take a different route.  The reality was that, unlike the Camino Frances with its pilgrim families, on the Camino Portuguese de Costa one had a greater chance of bumping into people, having great moments, and then never seeing them again. 
 

Pilgrims and Plovers

 
Beyond Praia do Quiao the route narrowed out and we found ourselves either stuck behind those walking at a different pace or being marched down upon by those walking at a different pace.  Needless to say, it was not the most enjoyable section of a Camino that we have ever hiked.  As a result, we eventually stepped off the Way and onto a beach to allow this group to pace through.  Perhaps we had arrived at Praia do Santo Andre or Praia do Coim (but to be honest the beaches have already begun to meld together). 

 
This diversion brought us to a spot in which we made an incredible discovery – here we caught sight of a number of spotted baby Kentish Plovers and two sets of adults watching over them.  Each baby Plover was incredibly cute, more like a pompom on legs.  These younglings could barely be spotted – being the colour of the beach they would dash back and forth and then crouch down in the footprints or ridges of the sand to hide.  Their fluffy pom-pom bodies made them irresistibly cute!

 
Having paused for far too long on the side of the trail to allow the quiet of nature to calm our spirits we again headed onward.  In short order, at the Hotel Santo Andrew and a Camino Beach Bar the route diverted away from the shoreline, following a paved road lined with a row of homes, before weaving back to another stretch of boardwalk.  

The highlight in this section is that amid a parking area for the beach, we found a framed mesh grill covered with pilgrim shells and pines along with a series of wooden distance signs. 
 

Adding to this – only a few feet away – we spotted two stunning Oscillated Lizards chasing each other!  Oscillated Lizards are also known as the jewelled lizard and are commonly found in southwestern Europe preferring dry areas such as beaches, open woodlands and scrublands.  It stands out as one of the largest lizards and has been known to reach almost 2 feet in length including their tails. While they are usually spotted on the ground they are also known to climb rocks and trees – which is especially useful given that they typically freed on spiders, beetles and snails as well as bird’s eggs
 

Large Lizards and Rare Birds

 
Having stopped again to spend time watching lizards we ventured on as the Camino tracked inland.  Following the boardwalk, we passed through a tiny and somewhat run-down-looking village which we guessed to be Agucadoura.  Yet once again our progress was brought to a standstill as we spotted two more gigantic Oscillated Lizards with bright green and blue spots. 
 

Pulling ourselves away from watching these two male lizards chase one another in the sand we walked on passing a huge mound of bright orange and gold Garden Nasturtiums pouring out of the back of someone’s yard.  

Just beyond this wondrous site, we arrived at a small pond teeming with mallards, Sandpipers, Sanderlines, Ruddy Turnstone, Wagtail, Kentish Plovers and Common Ringed Plovers who were also carrying for their young babies. Topping all of these species however, and the most rewarding part of this moment was sighting a Wilson's Phalarope - which turned out to be a birding rarity!

 
As we stood there taking it all in a Spanish lady carrying binoculars walked over to chat, and see what we had spotted.  Ultimately with her, we enjoyed a long and pleasant conversation about the baby plovers and local conservation efforts.  These simple encounters with nature were some of the most rewarding parts of our day, helping us connect with an often-overlooked aspect of the Camino.
 

Golf courses, Greenhouses and Boardwalks

 
Shortly after this exciting birding bonanza, we followed the Camino boardwalk tracing inland and eventually weaving around the Estela golf course.  Here the trail passed acres of plastic-covered greenhouses filled with crops.  These low-lying gardens, known as masseiras, are dug into the sand to protect them from the wind and salt off the ocean.  These troughs in between dunes serve to effectively create warmer sheltered environments that facilitate growth.  Having hiked through this area one can easily appreciate the benefits of being protected from the winds of the region.

 
Amid this stretch, we were fortunate to spot a Bocage’s Wall Lizard, as well as several Common Ringed and Little Ringed Plovers.
 

Needless to say our progress along the Camino today was not quick.  But then again why rush?  We have nothing but time each day on the trail.  Why not enjoy every moment?  Especially those spiritual and connecting moments in nature which call to us all the more for their simplicity.
 

A Fork in the Trail

 
Thankfully our route was covered by low-hanging trees that offered welcome shade. This forested chute went on for some time before arriving at a crossroads with one path leading straight ahead while another traced off back toward the Atlantic coast.  Vexingly, or perhaps fascinatingly, both routes had arrows pointing down them.

 
Uncertain as to which way to proceed we sat down and considered our options.  I think we were waiting for the wisdom of others to show us the “correct” way.  Unfortunately – and yet interestingly - each pilgrim that passed had a different response.  Some asked which branch led back to the coast.  Some wanted to know which was the shortest route.  Others went straight on without pause, while yet more debated.  Though many simply decided without pause that to do the fact is that it was fascinating to see how each person reacted to this moment of uncertainty.

 
In the end, the decision seemed to come down to the choice of either following boardwalks and beaches back to the ocean or walking the direct path along busy city streets.   Ultimately, we chose to go back toward the coast and not immediately into town.  With the choice made, we ventured along another long stretch of boardwalk and sandy beach before arriving in Areia, a small but bustling seaside town. 
 

Moinhos de Apuila

 
Just beyond town, still following the Puglia walkway, the Camino wove amid a series of old stone windmills.  These structures were perched on top of the sand dunes to catch the north winds blowing off the sea to mill cereal.  Apparently, this region is known for its corn fields, some of which are still cultivated today.  

The mills had round stone bases with small windows and doors, which is a design used to protect the corn and grain from humidity.  According to posted information, the mills were at one time abandoned, but have now been restored and converted into holiday homes.  The results were clearly popular as there were lots of people out on the white sand of the Apulia beach exploring and photographing this iconic sight.
 

Esposende

 
After following the coast for a short while the Camino once again moved inland, skirting around a spit of land where the Parque Natural do Litoral Norte is located and crossing the Cavado River on the Ponte de Fao – a very busy road bridge.  

Navigating through Fao we walked along very busy roads and stopped at a cafe for a break.  Here we were given two shot glass-sized containers of orange juice for a cost of 6 Euros.  This was a shock to us after having spent so long hiking in southern Portugal where large glasses of fresh juice cost only 1 or 2 Euros. 
 

With only a short distance to go the final push into Esposende followed a tree-lined cycling path.  After a long day of hiking, we were grateful for both the shade and the peacefulness of this coastal city.  

 

Thankfully it did not take us long to find our accommodations for the night, the Esposende Guesthouse.  Here we were given two bunk beds which we gratefully laid down on upon arrival.  

After a short break from hiking, we soon showered and hand-washed our laundry, and wrote our daily journals.  Later we purchased some snacks and ate sandwiches at an outdoor café in the town square, the Camara Municipal de Esposende.
 

Reflecting on Pilgrimage in the Age of Technology

 
Returning to our accommodations we joined a small group of middle-aged and older pilgrims sitting around the long common room table to chat with one another about the day and our shared experiences.  Interestingly, at the same time, many of the younger trekkers sat in the corners of the room on their phones wearing headsets scrolling through social media or watching streamed movies.  The contrast in age groups and experiences could not have been greater.  Clearly, a lot has changed on the Camino, as in the world.
 

Years ago, walking the Camino Frances most albergues and churches would have signs up stating “We have no Wifi, talk to one another” or “There is no Wifi, but the Connection is Awesome”.   Yet today even checking into the albergue highlighted the digital focus of the world.  Whereas my first thought walking into town was “Oh thank god there is shade, cold drinks and water” other pilgrims around us were literally exclaiming “Oh thank god there is wifi!” and prioritized obtaining the password and checking social media to resting or cleaning up.   For us after 6+ hours in 35-degree heat cooling off was our highest need, yet for so many others the necessity of getting back online took precedence.      
 
Perhaps more shocking was the fact that when one of these individuals in the Albergue disconnected and joined us at the table they talked about feeling isolated and were on Camino to meet others, and to relax.  All of which were similar feelings to our own.  Yet despite this feeling of not being connected while online they repeatedly turned back to their phones, logged in, and tuned out the very world and people in front of them.  
 

The prevalence of Wifi has led to a very different feeling along the Camino, its albergues and amid the communal meals which we enjoyed years ago.  To sit in a beautiful common room, with so many others – all with similar desires, interests and common goals – yet still be separated by screens, keeping their heads down and passively scrolling through social media feels surreal.  
 
There had been so many wonderful and special moments on the Way of St. James today – but each required having your head up and looking around to spot them.
 

Camino Pilgrimage and the Importance of Reflection

 
As we settled into our cozy guesthouse in Esposende, we reflected on our journey. The Camino, like life, is filled with a series of small moments, whether they are fleeting encounters with other pilgrims or quiet moments of connection with nature. With each step, we move closer to our destination, but it's the little things along the way that truly define the pilgrimage. The laughter, the kindness, the quiet while birdwatching, and the unexpected discoveries—they are what make the Camino so special.  But each requires us to be actively attentive to see and appreciate them.

 
As we head forward, we continue to believe that it is not the destination, but the journey itself, that matters most.
 
Accommodations: Esposende Guesthouse