Beginning the Camino Portuguese Coastal : Porto to Vila do Conde

 Beginning the Camino Portuguese Coastal

 “...Each step forward is the beginning of a new journey...”

 
So much of our Camino pilgrimage is decided before we even leave home.  From choosing our route and deciding on the length of our trek, and to deciding whether or not to arrange for luggage transport or opt to carry your own pack. Do we plan everything in advance or discover the way as one goes? These decisions invariably shape our pilgrimage and the experiences we have while on Camino. 

 

On the Way, Into the Wind

 
Arriving into Porto yesterday on the Camino Portuguese Central route from Lisbon we had hoped to take a couple of days off to rest and explore.  We have now been hiking continually since trekking out of Lagos on the Rota Vicentina some 650 km ago. 
 

Unfortunately those plans spectacularly dissolved on us after an expensive and frustrating evening.  The result being that last night’s troubles and costs have pushed us to continue on rather than remain.  Even sleep last night eluded us as the owner of our accommodations texted a number of times demanding that a positive review for both places be left.  All I can say is that some times, some moments and some places simply don’t click.  This is unfortunate as Porto is a stunningly beautiful and culturally rich city to explore, as we did on our last Portuguese pilgrimage several years ago.

 
Regardless, we have found that when things don’t work out there is no value in fighting them.  It was now time to trust that things would work out as they were meant to by continuing on.  As such, we packed up, deposited our key, and set out for breakfast at Café Avenida, where we indulged in strong coffee and sweet chocolate croissants.
 

Cathedrals and Credentials

 
Prepared and ready we walked back across the iconic Ponte de Dom Luis I, a remarkable piece of engineering connecting Vila Nova de Gaia and Porto.  Built in 1886 it was the largest metal arch bridge in the world when it was constructed.  Crossing the bridge alongside local metro trams we enjoyed stunning views over the Douro River, iconic Port Houses, and the city’s historic downtown.

 

Rather than exploring Porto our focus this morning was on obtaining our new pilgrim passport and stamp before heading toward the Atlantic coast and the Camino de Costa.  
 
As we waited for the Porto Cathedral to open, the city came alive with morning activity including dog walkers, joggers and shop owners.  At the cathedral there was a singular pilgrim wandering around the square looking at her phone and clearly striving to figure out which direction was the correct way.  Having trekked here before and knowing how confusing the city can be for pilgrims we offered our help but were soundly rebuffed. 

 
Soon after, the cathedral opened and we were able to purchase our newest credential booklets and receive a stamp noting our arrival in Porto and the beginning of our time on the Camino Portugal Coastal route.  While we did receive our credential it was from a completely disinterested employee who gave us little acknowledgement, no smile, and no Bom Camino.  Instead the entire process was entirely transactional as she briskly demanded the 4 euros for the credentials and moved onto the next person in line. 
 
Once again it was clearly time to move on and return to the Way.
 

The Many Ways to Santiago

 
Porto serves as the starting point for many Camino pilgrims, with three key routes available toward Santiago de Compostela : the Central Route, the Coastal Route, and the Senda Litoral. Having completed the Central Route in the past, we set our sights on the Coastal alternative, which follows the shoreline, offering breathtaking views of the Atlantic Ocean.   By comparison the Senda litoral is listed as also following the coastline on boardwalks and beaches and weaving along near the Coastal Route.  According to the guidebook these routes are about 274 km, which is slightly longer than the Central option.

 
In order to remain as close to the coast for as much of our trek as possible we are planning to mix the Coastal Route with the Senda Litoral.  Our hope being to follow the Atlantic coastline as much as possible until we reached the town of Pontevedra.  Here we will move onto the Variante Espiritual for the final leg to Santiago de Compostela.
 

Camino Portuguese Litoral and Coastal

 
Glad to being continuing along the Camino and ready for a new journey we set off from Se Cathedral winding our way alongside the Douro River to the Atlantic Ocean. We made our way by following the shore of the river more than we navigated by arrows for the 5 km stretch between the Cathedral to where the Douro meets with the Atlantic Ocean. 

 
The morning was warm and sunny, and we were quickly joined by others pilgrims as we navigated the river's pedestrian walkway.   One guidebook describes the Coastal Route as the ‘less traveled’ option, and perhaps it is, but it has been gaining in popularity in recent years and was far from empty.  Indeed we trekked out of Porto amid a steady stream of excited pilgrims.  The bustling city of Porto has an undeniable and unexplainable energy that lends a sense of shared purpose to the Camino journey.
 

Birding the Duoro River

 
Just past the second bridge, the Ponte da Arribada, we stopped at a tiny river-side shed and had another café com leche at the Douro Chique.   Here we received our first ‘Bom Caminho’ from the café owner as we sat on the shoreline and enjoyed the morning breeze. 

Nearby, just beyond the café, was the Observatorio das Aves.  The observation area was little more than a number of small rocky and grassy islands out in the water.  Regardless however, they were covered in Yellow-Legged Gulls, Grey Cormorants, Muscovy Ducks, Common Sandpipers, mallards, and a pair of egrets as well as having a magnificent Grey Heron standing on the shore!   Though brief, this wonderful moment restored our faith that starting out today was the right decision.

 
Continuing along we trekked down a treed cobblestone walkway, through an area defined by the Douro Valley and River Estuary. This region has a deep history, having been used as early as the 9^th BC century by Phoenician merchants.  Much of this region has been shaped by the cultivation of grapes and large vineyards that produce Port.  In fact, in 1756 Porto and the Douro Valley became the first demarcated wine region in the world. 
 

Foz do Douro : Parakeets at the Lighthouse

 
Continuing on, on the edge of the Atlantic Ocean we passed a row of palm trees along the Jardim so Passeio Alegre, an urban park.  Here we heard what sounded like an electric bird calling out.  Wondering if it was a recording we were shocked to spot dozens of bright green Monk Parakeets collecting nesting material in the nearby plantain trees before bringing it back to the palms!  It was all a bit surreal and exciting as these were the first wild Parakeets that we had yet spotted. 

 
Apparently Monk Parakeets, live about 15 years, and are also known as the Monk Parrot or Quaker Parrot.  They originate from South America and have been introduced into Portugal and Spain and are one of almost 200 different parakeet species in Europe.  While beautiful, as an introduced species Monk Parakeets are classified as invasive across the Iberian Peninsula and have been blamed for damaging crops, monopolizing roosting cavities and displacing vulnerable bat species

 
Ultimately we spent almost an hour admiring, watching and photographing this remarkable new species (to us) and as a result we were now caught amid a busy stream of pilgrims.  Walking on we met up with the Atlantic Ocean, passed the local lighthouse at the Foz do Douro and turned northward.   Soon after we walked along the high stone walls of Fortaleza de São João da Foz – whose turrets reminded us of the fortress in Pamplona on the Camino Frances.  This fortress was built in the 16^th century to guard the mouth of the Douro River and city of Porto.
 

The Atlantic Coastline

 
It has been since before Lisbon, in a roadside community by the name of Sao Torpes at the conclusion of the Rota Vicentina that we last saw the Atlantic Ocean and it was a welcome sight to once again see the wild blue expanse that separated Europe from North America.

 

Pushing north our route followed a sidewalk that paralleled the coastline and beaches on one side and the urban centre on the other.  En route we passed through several well landscaped parks filled with modern statues, works of art, and covered walkways. 

 

Keeping the ocean to our left and passing a series of beautiful promenades we passed a number of cafes full of locals and pilgrims alike.   In short order we wandered along a series of sandy beaches including the Praia das Pastoras, P. do Carniero, P. do Ourigo, Ingleses Beach, Praia da Luz.  Along each waves crashed into the shore unleashing dramatically large plums of white spray. 

 
Half an hour later beyond the Castelo do Quijo we spotted dowitcher-like birds foraging at the water's edge on a beach full of people.  

Nearby the castle, Forte de Sao Francisco Xavier was built in 1661.  Later in 1832 it was occupied by Absolutionists, and was badly damaged, and then abandoned.  It then became the headquarters for Porto's 1st Company of the Navy and in 1975 it was given to the Northern Commandos Association.  As with so many other sites, Castelo do Quijo represented yet another example of the long history that Portugal has with the sea. 
 

Mastosinhos Beach

 
Walking on we soon arrived at a local surfer’s beach.   Here (unsurprisingly) were lots of people out surfing in the huge waves.   In addition, here (surprisingly) we also spotted a number of Bar-tailed Godwits and Yellow-legged Gulls.  

Bar-tailed Godwits are wader birds that are found in coastal mudflats and estuaries where they eat shellfish.  They have a distinctive plumage, long upturned beak and short legs.  Interestingly the Godwit breeds in the Arctic but overwinters in temperate regions such as Portugal.

 

We soon passed the local tourism office, which was located in the middle of brick walkway.  Arriving we had hoped to go inside, get a stamp and use the bathroom – unfortunately we were unable to any of these things as the facility was closed today.  The upshot being that right across from this office was the first yellow arrow that we had spotted today since leaving Se Cathedral in Porto!
 

Harbours and Metro Stations

 
Leaving Matosinhos we headed inland to venture around an active container ship harbor.  Here we made our way along narrow streets lined with small shops and cafes.  En route the owner of one shop leaned out of his window to wish us well on our walk to Santiago.   

Crossing the harbour we climbed spiral staircase and followed a pedestrian walkway.  Below us large container ships were being loaded and unloaded amid the docks along the Rio Leca.

 
Venturing through this area we passed a metro station as a wave of pilgrims was emerging to begin their walk on the Camino da Costa. Shocked we checked the Brierly guidebook and discovered that it was recommended to people who wished to cut down the length of this stage to take the metro from Porto to this point.    The result being that this stage would be 11 km shorter than our walk today. 
 

“Journeys and hikes, much like life, are best enjoyed at a peaceful ramble

 rather than undertaken as a sprint to the finish…”

 

Beaches, Boardwalks, and Headwinds

 
Shortly after the harbor and Farol de Leca da Palmeira, we reached Praia Azul where we picked up a boardwalk that we would follow for the next 20 km.  Along this exposed wooden walkway the Camino ventured northward with the sea on one side and strip of 6 story apartment buildings on the other.   Though warm this stretch was a wonderful break from the pavement and urban walking of the last couple hours. 

 
Unfortunately, at the zenith of our excitement at being along the Atlantic coast the route shifted in orientation and we found ourselves slammed into with a wind that nearly took us off our feet.  This situation must be a normal occurrence, as the boardwalk had multiple benches and windbreaks installed along it.  Walking meant that we would fight this headwind for the rest of the day – which soon led to slow progress and was pretty exhausting.

 
We soon passed the Capela da Boa Nova and Miradouro which consisted of a beautiful small red roofed white chapel perched on the rocks right above the waves on the seashore.  Next, in complete contrast, we past the Quartel dos Bombeiros da Galp de Matosinhos, a large oil refinery with multiple red and what smoke stacks. 

 
Here the walkway was bordered with many cafés and restaurants and the long lines of pilgrims started to spread out as they took breaks for snacks and lunch at differing venues.  Largely on our own again we pushed on into the wind walking along Praia do Aterro, Praia do Cabo do Mundo, and Praia do Facho.
 

Obelisk Praia da Memoria

 
After about three or four kilometers on the boardwalk we arrived at a huge concrete obelisk at Praia do Memoria.  This obelisk, erected in 1864, commemorates the events of July 8th, 1832, when King Pedro embarked from this location to march on Porto and lay siege to it, in the process overthrowing the Absolutionist regiment.

 
Our attention however was drawn to the signs of nature amid the sand dune formations around us.  This region is an ornithological preserve and so there was a large possibility of seeing a new range of plants, insects and birds here.  Excited we followed the boardwalk passed the beaches of Praia da Funtao, Praia Angerias Sul and PR Norte.  Ultimately, while we did not spot any birds we did catch sight of the historic Roman Tanks in Angerias which were built for salting fish when Portugal was part of the Roman Empire. In addition, at the far end of the village, we passed a strip of colourful fishing boats, sheds and large piles of crab and lobster traps. 

 
In Labruge we diverted off the boardwalk to walk along the main street of town, which was blessedly sheltered from the wind.  Here we stopped for a quick coffee and a break to rest and slip off our packs for a few minutes.
 
Returning to the boardwalk the Camino entered a stretch of larger sand dunes.  Here the shoreline seemed both hillier and rockier.   On the rocks at Sao Paio we found an information plaque denoting the existence of three Iron Age engravings indicating that a Nordic Viking camp that was once located the spot.  From here we also enjoyed a nice view of the sandy crescent of the beach down below, and could see the small white Capela de Sao Paio in the distance. 

 
Arriving at Praia do Puco, a sandy beach, we discovered lots of Kentish Plovers.  Kentish Plovers, like many species we have seen here, are small wader birds found in Europe, North Africa and Central Asia.  Fittingly Kentish Plovers breed along the shores of saline lakes, lagoons and coastlines though they live (exactly where we found them) amid arid sand dunes.

 

Wind Whipped

 
Walking on we passed the Vila do Chà and diverted inland through a very nice town that provided a wonderful break from the wind.  Here we ventured along narrow, paved streets through the small fishing village passing homes covered in tiles and statuary reflecting the creative spirit that so often seems to arise in coastal towns.

 
Eventually however the Camino wove us back out onto the boardwalk, before diverting again inland to the village of Gafa and later into Araia.  Throughout this stretch we continued to trek among the dunes of the Litoral de Vila do Conde e Reserva Ornithologica, where we saw more Kentish Plovers on beach! 

 
Observing these beautiful birds we also caught our first sight of the town of Vila do Conde!  Though close our destination for the day was nonetheless still challenging to get to.  In the last kilometer trekking amid large sand dunes the wind was whipping sand into our faces.  

We eventually had to put on sun glasses and pull up our neck buffs to protect our eyes and faces as the wind bound sand really stung to walk into.  Indeed as we trudged along we felt as though we were being sand blasted.
 

Vila do Conde

 
After a short but tiring stretch along the coast, a large and welcome yellow arrow diverted us inland.  Crossing a grassy field that led us to the outskirts of town we stopped in a small chapel and got a stamp for our pilgrim passport along with a handful of others.  Soon after we reached historical town of Vila do Conde.  Crossing into the community we walked along the Ave River which was filled with Ruddy Turnstones, into the centre of town to find accommodations.

 
Our bed for the night was in a wonderful guest house whose entrance was shaded by a number of ripe orange trees.  The rooms are nice, clean and cool – perfect after a day of walking along exposed boardwalks and beaches in the sun.  Here we have a common kitchen, courtyard, and shared bathroom. 

 
Vila do Conde is a beautiful town which served as a centre for shipbuilding during the Age of Discovery.  Owing to this the region has a maritime museum and has a Portuguese Caraval, the Nau Quinhenstista which is moored at the heart of town.  The Caraval is a wooden replica of a 16th century Portuguese vessel that would have existed and been relied upon as Portugal pioneered world exploration.   It is only 30 meters long but could carry 180 tons of cargo on her voyages.  On board visitors can experience what life would have been like, see the crew’s quarters, view where cargo was stored, and learn about the types of maps and instruments used for navigation. 
 
At the historic centre of Vila do Condo is the beautiful and imposing Mosterio de Santa Clara, which was founded in 1318.  Around this centre are narrow cobblestone walkways that lead to the 16^th century parish church Igreja Matriz. 
 
Nearby is a medieval quarter that was built around the harbor which is dominated by the white dome of the Capela do Socorro – a circular chapel built in 1603 in the Moorish Style is Azulejos.   In addition to which there are also sections of an impressive 5 km long water aqueduct built from 1705-1714.   
 

Reflecting on Pilgrimage along the Camino Coastal

 
Having visited a local Lidl grocery store to get supplies for dinner we rested in the courtyard of the Guesthouse.  Having trekked more than 34 km today made this stage a physically demanding stretch.  Our cozy accommodations were perfect after a long day on the Senda Litoral and Camino Coastal along the Douro river and windy Atlantic coastline. 

 
Reflecting on the day, it felt different from other stages of the Camino Portuguese. Venturing along seacoast boardwalks is a very different experience than walking the Eucalyptus forests, trails and roadways typical on other sections of the Camino Portuguese.  In places where the Camino markers and traditional yellow arrows disappear the route was nonetheless easy to follow as here, perhaps fittingly, it was the people who made the way clear.

 
Accommodation – Laranjal Guesthouse