Rough Beginnings on the Camino Portuguese : Porto

Rough Beginnings on the Camino Portuguese

Having trekked some distance from Faro in the south Algarve to Lisbon along the Rota Vicentina and northward from Lisbon to Porto on the Camino Portuguese we found ourselves on the edge of two pilgrimage alternative routes that we have never ventured along before.  Namely the Portuguese Coastal and the Espiritual.

Modern Evolution of the Camino

The Camino de Santiago as a pilgrimage and destination, at its core, has always revolved around three key elements: the spiritual faith that pilgrims carry with them, the religious importance of Santiago de Compostela, and the practical financial business aspects of the Way.

Pilgrims set out with faith that their journey will bring spiritual reflection and personal growth en route to Santiago yet throughout history the economic aspects of the pilgrimage have always played a significant role.  Six months after our first pilgrimage to Santiago on the Camino Frances we found ourselves back in St Jean Pied de Port at the end of the Via Podiensis / GR65 and we were stunned at the transformation and increasing focus on tourism.  As the years have passed we have been fortunate to also venture along the Camino de Madrid, San Salvador, and Primitivo routes.  Along each of these, intersecting at times with the Frances and Norte we were taken aback by the dramatic changes—the routes increasingly seemed geared more towards economic gain than spiritual reflection. 

History of Pilgrimage

Don’t get us wrong, change along the Way of St. James is not new or unique to the 21^st century.  The Camino and pilgrimage have always evolved, and continue to do so in the modern age. Today one can walk almost any of the Caminos in Spain and Portugal and find Coca-Cola Camino machines, pilgrim shells in variety stores, Pilgrim Boutique shops, Camino mascots, and albergues with huge ranges of amenities.  There are undoubtedly times in which the Camino can seem more like hiking tourism than a pilgrimage.

None of this is new of course the ties between pilgrimage, economics, trade and tourism have always existed.  With the rise of pilgrimage and the Camino, the possibilities for profit also developed.  Even historical texts like the Codex Callixtinus and Chaucer’s Canterbury Tales – two of the earliest works detailing pilgrimage - highlight the presence of bandits, profiteers, and businesses along the routes.  Since then travel guides and medieval accounts have highlighted the wonders, pitfalls and challenges which await pilgrims along the route to Santiago. Russ Eanes observes that “the economics of sainthood are an open secret of religious pilgrimage:  Pilgrims bring in a lot of money.  In the Middle Ages, constructing a shrine or cathedral to house the remains or relics of a saint brought an economic boon.”

In comparison to medieval brothels and bandits modern Coca-Cola machines and pilgrim mascots on the Camino seem rather sedate.  Businesses springing up to feed pilgrims, gear stores emerge to sell supplies, tour companies offer packages, and services like luggage transport are developed.  In this manner, the transformation of the Camino that has historically taken place to fit the realities of the world and the demands of the tourist pilgrim are a normal part of the development of the Ways of St. James.  However, while there are clear benefits to this evolution for everyone involved it also – at a certain point – nonetheless begins to transform a once humble journey of faith and reflection into an increasingly commercialized experience.

Arriving into Porto Portugal

Unfortunately, the commercialization of the Camino was perhaps most evident upon our arrival in Porto this year.  In contrast to the history and beauty of the city that we experienced years ago on the Camino Portuguese from Lisbon to Porto our arrival this year gave way to a having to navigate impersonal hosts and dominating business-first mentality. Both of these contrast sharply with the welcoming spirit both the Camino and Portugal are known for.  Needless to say, it was a rough beginning to the Camino de Costa.

The walk into Porto is probably one of the nicest approaches to any city we’ve seen on foot and we enjoyed it for the second time having now walked once again from Lisbon.  Entering into Porto from last night’s stay in Grijo we found ourselves again standing on the shores of the Rio Douro – one of the largest rivers in Portugal.   For us, the Douro is impressive not just for its size but because it is possible to see 280 bird species in this region alone!  For this reason alone we were looking forward to spending two days in Porto to rest and explore.

Crossing the river on the Ponte Luis bridge at the heart of the city we made our way past the Se do Porto Cathedral and felt as though we were now truly back in Porto with its historic streets, terrific lighting and relaxed vibe.   Porto is one of those amazing cities where you feel that you can find something new around every corner.   It felt great to be back.

Albergues and Economics

Years ago we were welcomed into a pilgrim albergue in Porto with joy and celebration, we talked to people we had been trekking with for weeks and basked in our communal achievements.  By contrast today we arrived into Porto to find that the albergue was full.  Rather than searching for another albergue or nearby accommodation, and largely out of concern that we might have to walk on, we did something unusual while on Camino – we reserved a place through Booking.com.  The room we chose was based on the price – with 30 euro bunks not available to us and living on a limited budget – our decision was more about finding something inexpensive than anything else.  This fact reflected in the reality that our night’s accommodation would require us to hike 5 km back across the bridge and out of Porto down a busy highway.

At 75 Euros a night for a single bed in a room, it was the cheapest remaining option in town for two tired pilgrims and we grabbed it.  After another hour of walking, this time back across the Duro River, we arrived at the accommodations to discover that the “hosts” were absent and would email us the code after paying “several additional fees”.  The first of these was Porto’s 8 Euro per person, per night “city tourism tax”.  Once paid, we were then told by email that in making our reservation had “agreed to repay the host the Booking.com fees that accommodations must pay out.”  A few minutes later we were emailed a link and directed to pay 20 plus more Euros via Paypal to cover these extra fees. Next, we were sent an email and a link telling us to pay 10 more Euros for the owner’s banking fees, which they purported to be charged for using Paypal.  Eventually, with these three extras done and 46 Euros in extra fees paid, we were finally emailed the lockbox combination for our keys to enter the unit. 

Upon entry, we discovered that the room was not even remotely clean, and had seemingly not been cleaned in recent memory.  Added to the sticky floor and stained unmade bed sheets we also spotted bed bugs on the curtains - which I have an extreme allergy to.  Needless to say, we stepped back outside with our backpacks still on and again emailed the host about the situation.  The response stunned us as we were quickly told “No one else has complained” and “no refunds can be given!”

Not open to sleeping with bed bugs and risking the end of my Camino we walked away from the property and soon found another albergue with a room for a single night at the absorbent cost of 150 Euros.  No very tired we reserved it and frustratingly found out that it too was owned by the same host as the first accommodation.   This discovery was made when we began to receive a similar round of emails and texts to again pay the city fees, again cover his Booking.com fees and again pay his online banking charges.  By day’s end, we ultimately spent more on these two rooms for one night than we would have to stay in a parador or similar hotel suite. 

When all was done, and we were finally in a clean and secure room with all of the extra fees paid and all city taxes covered we asked for the simplest thing a pilgrim requests - a stamp for our credential.  Within minutes we were messaged and told “NO!  Go to the Cathedral for that.  I cannot afford a stamp!  You ask too much!”   Needless to say, this was a depressing way to return to Porto and begin our time on the Camino Coastal route. 

Unfortunately, even this was not the end of our ordeal with this host.  We would go on to receive daily emails from him over the next two weeks demanding that we leave positive reviews for both accommodations. 

Our attempt to move on and enjoy an evening in Porto was soon met with similar realities including a 50 Euro meal and 10 Euro glasses of Port.  The same food fair that we enjoyed from Lagos to Lisbon on the Rota Vicentina and from Lisbon onward along the Camino Portuguese would have cost 10-20 Euros altogether.  Instead, our single night in Porto cost more than 300 Euros for a single bed and a simple dinner with a glass of Port.    The entire situation was a stark reminder that so much of the world has become impersonal, greedy, and driven by consumerism the results of which separate people.

Unlike our previous pilgrimage on the Camino Portuguese, this journey was going to be different.  I suppose you can never walk in the same river twice. 

Reflecting on our return to Porto 

With a long day behind us and a frustrating and costly evening in Porto, we decided that instead of staying for a couple of days as planned we would continue on.  Our hope in leaving Porto tomorrow is to place ourselves in the hands of the primary aspect of the Camino - faith.  A faith in the people and the pilgrims on the Camino and in the optimistic belief that on the Way of St. James, everything works out.

Here is to hoping tomorrow is a better day…