Nude Beaches, Great Tits, and European Shags : Ramallosa to Vigo

Nude Beaches, Great Tits, and European Shags

Today’s Camino journey from Ramallosa to Vigo began with an incredibly peaceful night in the albergue, which felt more like a secluded cloister than accommodations in a city. We were even able to leave the window open all evening, and the serene atmosphere made it difficult to leave. Waking up at 7 AM, neither of us felt in a rush to depart the tranquillity of our surroundings. We brewed coffee in our room and then went in search of croissants, though we soon discovered that nothing was open in the town. Checking out we picked up our backpacks, retraced our steps back to the river way and followed the Coastal route toward Vigo.

Green Arrows along the Camino

As we began our walk, we quickly discovered the unmistakable green arrows marking the alternative Camino route we were following today. 

These small but important indicators guided us down to the waterfront. Here the riverside park, with its pedestrian walkway and boardwalk, provided a peaceful place to begin our day’s journey.

En route early on we passed the charming Capela San Campio. 

Bird watching at ZEC Ramallosa

We reached the waterfront to find that it was low tide and that the vast mudflats along the waterway were both exposed and teeming with several species of shorebirds!  Needless to say, it was a wonderful start to the day for us.

We soon discovered that this stretch of shoreline was an Important Bird Area (IBA), or what is termed a ZEC, or Zona de Especial Conservacion in Portugal and Spain. Hence leaving Ramallossa we would walk through ZEC A Ramallosa.  Around us birds called, whistled and sang in the tidal flats between the land and the water.  As such we would soon spot species such as Little Egrets, White Wagtails, Whimbrels, Black-bellied Plovers, Common Ringed Plovers, Ruddy Turnstones, Dunlins, Grey Herons, and Common Redshanks!

Here many pilgrims passed us – with looks of amusement and curiosity – as we made our way along the riverside walkway.  

The Paseo da Ramallosa led us slowly down the boardwalk through a lovely green space from which we could see the Monte Lourido peninsula sticking out at the mouth of the Rio Minor. Amid this estuary were a number of colourful row boats sitting on their sides as well as a number of people out harvesting shellfish.

Come Walk With Us #Hike4Birds

Only slowly progressing amid our avian distractions we were stunned as two Canadian ladies stopped to talk with us.   The chat began as they asked about what birds we were seeing.  As the conversation continued these ladies suggested that perhaps we would be interested to know that, on the news at home, there were two people hiking across Canada looking for birds while teaching school children about conservation. 

As one of them talked about what species she had seen on Camino her companion went to look up the story about the birding hikers.  Then it clicked.  As they pulled up a CBC news article they recognized us as being the duo hiking the 28,000 km long Trans Canada Trail to share the nation’s birds and promote Citizen Science.   Our initiative was called Come Walk With Us and known as the #Hike4Birds and once we arrived in Santiago we would be returning home for our final year on the Trans Canada Trail to walk the final 4000 km from Edmonton Alberta to the Arctic Ocean. 

Shocked at meeting us another conversation sharing our respective birding journeys soon ensued.  Eventually, we all parted ways wishing one another a “Bom Caminho”. 

Still slowly making our way, at the far end of the waterway we stopped to read a sign about the Camino routes in the area and the various birds you could see in the ZEC A Ramallosa.  As we turned off the Way to check out more species in the mud flats, an old Spanish man excitedly called to us, pointing out the direction we needed to walk on the Camino.  This kind-hearted gentleman, in the typical fashion of wearing a dark hat, and carrying a cane would not allow us to deviate to the birding area we had hoped to see.  In fact, he refused to let us continue around the shoreline birding as it was not in the direction of the Camino.

Smiling and happy he led us a block along the Camino and pointed the way onwards.  We thanked him and walked away from the Important Birding Area behind us.  Ah well, both of us would rather be in a region of helpful kind souls than those who could care less about our welfare.

Street Trekking and Coastal Beauty

Following the gentleman’s directions and local Camino arrows, we left the riverside, crossed through a residential neighbourhood and emerged at Praia Americana.  Joining the long, sandy beach we were met by a unique statue of a whale covered in a rainbow of plastic objects.   

We presumed this statue was both an artistic presentation of the region’s relationship with the ocean and a reminder of the dangers of single-use plastic to our environment. 

Following the arch of the shoreline, the area was dotted with restaurants and shops catering to beachgoers.  Here we ventured down a cycling and walking path along the waterfront. As we continued on our route passed through more marshy areas where we took a moment to spot birds from a lovely wooden observatory.  Here more signs indicated the plants, animals, sea creatures and birds you could see in the region.  All in all, for us, it was very exciting.

Walking on, we slowly skirted around the bay towards another peninsula.  Eventually, we came out to another sandy beach by the name of Praia Paxon.  This sandy stretch was also bordered by a pedestrian promenade as well as a long row of beachfront stores.  

Crossing the sandy beach we took the opportunity to stop at a café and enjoy a proper breakfast including two huge croissants and café con leche while taking in the view. 

From here we caught glimpses of the Fortaleza Monterreal and its long white walls as well as the distant Cíes Islands out at sea.

Intertidal Zones

Walking on the path led us along the Praia do Patos and then to a small beach at Praia do Portino, where we spent time in the tide pools, discovering anemones, limpets, corral and snails.

With our hiking boots off and our backpacks sitting on the rocky shore we attracted a lot of attention from those at the bar above and other pilgrims who marched through.

The tranquil setting was a perfect moment of respite in nature and an exciting place to explore before we resumed our walk toward tonight’s destination.  Eventually, we put our backpacks back on and climbed back up the steep staircase and hill into the next neighbourhood.  

After which the Camino consisted of a great deal of meandering down paved roads through neighbourhoods, and along busy highways in the suburbs of Vigo

Navigating into Vigo

There is no denying that the hike into Vigo proved challenging.  After wandering for some time on the pavement the Camino eventually came back down to the shoreline at the Praia de Canido, a beach that consisted of a small sandy shore with several snack bars along it.

At the far end was the Centro Arqueoloxico da Vila Romana de Toralla, which is a museum and archeological dig of a Roman villa. Apparently, it is one of thirty such sites that have been discovered in Galicia along the Atlantic coast.  This particular site was located near Vicus (now Vigo) and was an urban center used by the Romans whose economy was based on fishing, salt flats, and salting factories.  According to local history plaques, by the 2nd century, this villa was one of the most important manufacturing areas in the northwest part of the peninsula. 

Unfortunately, the site was closed when we walked through, but we could still catch glimpses of the stone foundations through glass panels in the wall around the museum which gave us a sense of Vigo’s historical significance.

Great Tits and European Shags

Walking on we followed a shaded pedestrian promenade along which we were separated from the coast by large dunes on one side and boardered by hotel resorts on the other while we traced along the edge of Playa del Vao.  Afterwards, in quick succession, we trekked past the Praia da Fontaina, Praia de Fechino, and Playa de Corujo.  It should be said that (unknown to us at the time) this stretch is notable for the fact these are all nude beaches.  With literally everything on display here, if one was interested, you would simply have to pick out the age, weight, size and endowment of what one wanted.

Understandably nude beaches make both birding and photography a unique challenge.  It was in this stretch that we had the fortune…or misfortune… to spot several new bird species amid crowds of naked busty women and well-endowed men.  And so without a lie here beside the nude beaches of Vigo, we spotted both Great Tits and European Shags for the first time.

I assure any non-birders that both are real species. 

Needless to say, it was not long before both of us had our binoculars and birding cameras out.  Doing our best to keep our backs to the nude beaches and our binoculars and camera scopes high in the air we set about photographing both new species. 

The Great Tit is a non-migratory widespread species across Europe, the Middle East and North Africa and has excelled in human environments including city parks and family gardens.  It is a cavity nester, usually living in a hole in a tree which makes urban parks and inland forests ideal for the species.  The Great Tit is a distinctive bird with a black head and neck, white cheeks, and a mixed olive and yellow underbody.  Interestingly though predominantly insectivorous in the spring and summer Great Tits have also been known to survive on a wider range of foods in the winter including bats.  

As one British pilgrim passed us he gently nudged Sean, pointing at his birding lens and dryly commented “Seems you aren’t the only one out here with something big eh mate?”  Laughing and glad we had the opportunity to spot these birds we soon put our cameras away and put our packs back on.  Walking on the seemingly inevitable jokes were passed between us about finding this group of aptly named species along a coastline of nude beaches. 

I suppose the politest observation that could be made is that on the Camino there is no regular day as each stage is often defined by the unexpected. 

Still following the waterline we passed through a small park of tall pine trees.  Here we were surprised to see that the trees were filled with Monk Parakeets – which we had not seen since Porto!  Each was bouncing from branch to branch making a great deal of noise and collecting sticks. 

Realizing that we had spent most of the day birding rather than walking we pushed on.  Now on the outskirts of Vigo, with only an hour of road walking remaining we were amazed at how wonderful the nature in the region was.  Especially given how close we were to such a large urban centre.

Approaching Vigo, Navigating Industry

The Camino Portuguese guidebooks note that the walk into Vigo is a challenge.  It is described as largely unmarked and confusing to follow.  Apparently, local bars have put out directional stickers which lead to their establishment rather than toward Santiago.  While businesses have spray-painted more yellow arrows that disappear amid the urban landscape and other regionally created Camino markers. As such, the overwhelming advice in our guidebook was to stick to the coast and follow the river into town to end the day’s stage. 

Ultimately, however, even as we sought to stay on the shoreline a combination of busy streets, uncertainty and urban sprawl soon led us to be lost.  Crossing Vigo felt more like a challenge than a pilgrimage.   Cities are in many ways not designed to be walked across.  Added to this the realities traversing urban centres made the walk through Vigo unpleasant.

At one point we stopped to get our bearings and had a man walk up, and push us off the sidewalk as he marched by.  On another street, a well-dressed businesswoman put her nose in the air and focused on her phone she shoved past. Added to this, throughout it all neither the motorcycles nor the mopeds in this region seemed to follow any sense of traffic laws – often racing around cars, through red lights and across sidewalks regardless of whether anyone was on them or not.

Wandering somewhat aimlessly and in the hope that we were at least headed in the right direction we eventually found ourselves in the heart of the city’s industrial and shipping districts, which contrasted sharply with the peaceful coastal route we had been walking throughout the morning.   Here we navigated abandoned and dilapidated buildings, filled with machinery, tough dock workers and people who were clearly struggling with addiction. 

Perhaps this description sounds improbable however crossing Vigo on the Camino is so notoriously tough that one amazing online series, Beyond the Way, states that in Vigo to find one’s way, one must “sacrifice a virgin, read chicken gizzards, consult an oracle…..” and even then you cannot follow the Camino through Vigo. 

All one could do was walk on, try their best to find the way, and hope that everything worked out.  Thankfully it did …eventually.

Historic Old Quarter of Vigo

After struggling through the industrial outskirts, we arrived near the central train station, where we noticed the sheer number of pilgrims that were disembarking and preparing to begin their own Caminos. Vigo, we soon discover, is the 100 km marker if one is following the Coastal and Espiritual routes.  From the train station, we found our first set of a clear set of yellow arrows that led us to the historical old quarter of Vigo.  Here narrow streets, beautiful buildings and a stunning cathedral did much to redeem our time in the urban sprawl of the city. 

Vigo is named after the Roman word for ‘small village’ - which it clearly no longer is.   While Vigo did not get much attention throughout much of history it has nonetheless been a focus for the Vikings, Francis Drake and the French Army.  As a result, in the 17^th century, Philip IV built defensive walls to protect it. Both the Age of Cod and later heavy industrialization in the 19^th century would lead to the rapid growth and success of the region. According to the guidebook, Vigo is the largest city in Galicia and the largest since Porto that the Camino Portuguese passes through.

At the centre of the old town, we stopped at the Cathedral, the Concatedral- Basílica de Santa María de Vigo, a 19th-century neoclassical church.   Unfortunately, the cathedral was closed and so, tired, we sat down for a beer in the courtyard of the Praza da Igrexa at a welcoming tapas Bar, the Taperia Stefany.    Outside we were soon joined by other pilgrims, four of whom were from the United Kingdom.  Each of them had also struggled to find their way across the city and was grateful for the break and cold pint.  In short order, groups of Australians and Germans would sit and the hours would pass enjoying one another’s conversation and reflections as we imbibed cervejas and ate bowls of olives and bags of crisps

As the hours passed we made the decision to stay in Vigo and take our first day off from hiking since beginning the Rota Vicentina almost a month ago.  Our bodies just needed a day off the trail so I made reservations for the next two days at the Hotel Ciudad de Vigo. 

With the evening setting in we said our goodbyes, wished everyone at the tables a good Camino and walked the two blocks to our accommodations.   Our hotel for the next two nights was located right beside Praza Compostela - a beautifully landscaped green space and garden.  Here we checked in, showered and washed our clothes before heading back out to a local Mercado to buy our evening meal.

Photo Credit : Johnathan Grey 

Photo Credit : Johnathan Grey 

Back in our room we sat at a table in front of the window and admired the harbour view.   We watched as ships went out of port while others returned to dock. One vessel in particular stood out amid the fishing vessels and tacky cruise ships – Cunard’s Queen Victoria with its sleek black hull and iconic red funnel.   While we could not get any decent pictures of this beautiful vessel another pilgrim that we met a few days later shared ones that he took while wandering down to Vigo’s dockyard.

Reflecting on the Camino today

Vigo is a city with a rich history but one that has evolved dramatically over the centuries. From its Roman roots to its role as a center of industry, Vigo’s evolution is marked by significant changes. The city today – especially along the Camino route - is a place of contrasts with modern streets lined with shops and busy traffic as well as a rough industrial and shipping port being juxtaposed against the quiet beauty of its historic district and nearby beaches. Despite this, the historic quarter offered a glimpse of the city’s charm, with its winding streets and colourful squares.

As we continue on our pilgrimage, we’ll carry with us the memories of the peaceful coastal path, the challenges of navigating urban landscapes, and the diverse natural beauty along the way. Though Vigo itself may not have been the highlight of our journey, it’s clear that every step—whether through forests, along beaches, or through bustling cities—adds to the rich tapestry of the Camino de Santiago experience.

Accommodations: Hotel Ciudad de Vigo